Jul 22, 2014

The Flood Gates Have Opened


Up until 2010 visiting the various wonders of Myanmar (Officially Burma) were done in a much
different manner. The government had a Hercules type grip on the influx of tourists (and the Burmese people for that matter) and what they were allowed to do. Now tourists and backpackers a like are allowed to roam much of the beautiful country all without a tour guide at their hip side. So what happened in 2010? Well in laments terms, the government changed. With that change new laws were enforced not only for the adventurous blood-thirsty backpackers but the Burmese people as well.

The first guesthouse I stayed at in Myanmar I was met with an extremely intelligent and informative Burmese guesthouse owner, named Anun, who cleared up some things for me on how life has changed for them as Burmese citizens and for the average traveler over the last decade. Here are a few tidbits of information I sucked out of him just hours before leaving his guesthouse.
Before the government change the people of Myanmar were on strict supervision and completely isolated from the rest of the world. By supervision I literally mean there were government spies roaming about the country monitoring citizens by restricting any talk open conversation about the government, good or bad. The isolation factor comes into play with the media, modes of transportation and domestic lines of communication. Up until 2012 the people of Myanmar had three channels of television to watch, all government run. Three!! Present day they have close to hundred raising the number quite a bit in a just a few years. Well sure enough they had internet to see what was going around the world too right? Nope! Internet was released in Myanmar in 2003/2004 but was also monitored by the government and still is. Their current infrastructure for internet is absolutely horrendous so I could only imagine what it was like when it first started ten years ago. Before the government change Anun told me running a business without the direct hand of the government was nearly impossible due to the lack of available personal transportation and lack of telephones. Just a few years back to buy a used car in Myanmar cost around $100,000! Also to purchase any sort of sim-card for a cell phone was nearly $2,000! So in-turn starting up a personal business was not easy with costs like these weighing you down. The good news is cars have already become exponentially cheaper and in two months time sim-cards will be as low $2. These changes along with a few others are the reason Anun was finally able to open his two guesthouses with much greater success then if he would have done it prior to 2010.

Now has all this changed effected tourism?

Well for starters Anun told me that in 2011 there were 500,000 tourists that came through the country. In 2012 the number jumped to 1,000,000 and in 2013 it rose to 2,000,000 with over 3,000,000 projected for 2014. This number will continue to rise as more and more of Myanmar opens up to foreigners. Anun didn't tell me the exact territories or regions that have been released to tourism but I know for a fact places like Inle Lake (pictured below) were only accessible with special permits prior to 2010.

Inle Lake, Myanmar 

Inle Lake, Myanmar

Inle Lake, Myanmar

The new government is also making it easier for tourists to get into the country, physically and logistically. This last January there were three Myanmar-Thai land boarders that opened up and are creating a lot of buzz in the backpacker world. Anun also said that in a just few weeks foreigners will be eligible for Electronic-Visas so it will eliminate the hassle of running to a Burmese embassy in a neighboring country for your visa. There is no time table set but Singapore, Malaysia, Thailand and Cambodia citizens are not going to be in need of a visa to visit Myanmar in the near future. Citizens of those countries will need just a passport from their respective countries. Myanmar is showing the wiliness to attract not just western tourists but their neighboring friends as well.


All of this change combined is making a Myanmar a VERY popular destination. With this popularity it does though create a double edged sword. Sure infrastructure will improve and more hostels will be scattered around the country making accommodation cheaper but this will also take away from the countries purity. I can only imagine Myanmar is similar to what Thailand was three decades ago. My point being is get to Myanmar ASAP before it gets “Thailandized”. 


Bagan, Myanmar
                        
Hsipaw, Myanmar
   
Traditional Shan State (Northern Myanmar) dish

Feasting monkeys outside of Hsipaw, Myanmar 
                                    



Jul 4, 2014

Give And You Shall Receive

Earlier this month I finished up my month long teaching stint with International Coordination Center for Volunteer Teachers of Thailand (ICCVTT). I hope to not only share a little bit of my experiences but also give a quick run-down of the application process and what you get with ICCVTT. The first thing I want to clarify with ICCVTT is you do NOT need a Teaching English as a Foreign Language certificate (AKA TEFL) to apply. The two main components needed are a high school (or primary school) diploma and English as your primary language (and the last one can even be negotiable). No teaching experience or TEFL certificates are a commonality within ICCVTT as a lot of the schools are grateful enough just to a have a native English speaker on school grounds. ICCVTT is a volunteer program so obviously there is no pay included but there is compensation. All meals Monday-Friday are provided along with housing for the entirety of your stay at your respective school. There is an application fee of $15 and tiered payment system starting at $50 for one month of teaching and ending at no payment of three months or more teaching. The more you give, the less you pay. If you take into consideration other programs around the Thailand this is absolute steal of an opportunity. The first Google listing under “volunteer teaching in Thailand” brings about a program towards the southern part of Thailand that requires you to pay for your housing AND food. They also provide a list of places to stay ranging from $7 a night to $30 a night. I’m no math whiz but just accommodation within this program is at least $200 dollars a month. Reading over this makes me appreciate ICCVTT that much more.
Aside from the accommodation and food provided ICCVTT also gives volunteers a chance to live rural Thai life. All the schools are located in the Sa Kaeo Province just a few minutes from the Thai-Cambodian Border. Not known as a tourist hotspot this is an ideal spot to teach English in Thailand. It really gives you chance to see and understand the current of everyday Thai life. Even with the three decade long tourist boom through Thailand the Sa Kaeo Province remains pure and shielded from the oh so common backpacker trail. I found this aspect of ICCVTT very appealing and made me enjoy my time teaching even more.

For me in particular I could not be more grateful in my placement within ICCVTT as I was given the chance to teach at the school Jason Natokon, the program director, started ICCVTT. The school was in a tiny village about 15-20KM outside the city of Watthana Nakorrn with just under 400 people and roughly 150-200 students. With only a few places to eat and one little convenient store it was very simple way of living. This is something I was definitely in search of when looking for a volunteer opportunity in Thailand. It gave me a chance to not only created relationships with the students and teachers but with the village people as well.

Next door to the school was a family run restaurant where I consumed the majority of my dinners. It was there I developed my strongest emotional attachment to anyone outside of the school. The mother, daughter and four grandkids (three of which belonged to the daughter who helped at the restaurant) stole my heart and ran with it to the highest peak imaginable. Every night I looked forward to not only the indescribably delicious Thai food but the quality time I got to spend with that wonderful family. With an obvious language barrier in place I had slightly different relationships with all of them. The mother and I had a wonderful working relationship that involved her teaching me the correct pronunciation of various Eastern Thai dishes (not to mention eating them nightly) while she would point to various ingredients in her kitchen as I spout them out in English. The daughter knew somewhat decent conversational English so speaking with her involved actual sentence structure and she became a mediator for sharing thoughts and feelings with the mother as well. She and I would also exchange lessons of teaching each other our respective languages so learning a little bit of Thai was a complete bonus. Lastly the kids and what a gem of a foursome they were.  Countless hours were spent playing football (soccer) under the single spotlight around the restaurant along with hundreds of photos of them and I nestled up next to the face of my camera making the most ridiculous faces and exchanging in some outrageous poses. Without a doubt I spent more of my time hanging out and socializing with the family then actually eating. This simple yet precious relationship is just one example of what volunteering with ICCVTT can bring you.

It was this exact situation that also made me teeter totter the thought that I wasn't giving enough back to this wonderful community. Sure I donated my 15 hours a week to teaching but I walked away from that village with a full heart and so much more and to me that was definitely worth more than 15 hours in a classroom. I could go on and on with my various relationships and experiences during my month long stay (like the absolutely stunning Thai wedding Jason brought me to in my post below) but I would be sitting here at my laptop for far too long. Down below is the link to the ICCVTT website where you can check out the application and how other volunteers felt about their time volunteering in the Sa Kaeo Province along with a few pictures from my time. 


Link for ICCVTT website.



The Mom, Two daughters (one of which was hardly around), and youngest Son

The older two neighbor kids and I 

My final was meal next door was a grand one to say the least!


Peace signs all around

Two fellow volunteers (Anthony and Pon) along with the wonderful teachers of Watthana Nakorrn
Teaching English Club with fellow volunteer Pon